Sewing Pattern Review: Abigail by Modkid

Johanna came by the shop when the new Patty Young knits for Michael Miller Fabrics arrived. She left offering to make a sample and write up a review for the Abigail pattern by Modkid (Patty’s sewing pattern line).

It’s good to have friends like Johanna. She’s my Knit Expert. If I ever have a question on how to do something with knits I ask her. She opted to make this dress with her regular sewing machine and share her experience. You do not need a serger to begin sewing with knits.

Johanna teaches a class on how to use your serger at Esther’s.  I didn’t really know what my serger could do and I’ve since fallen in love with it after taking the class. The most amazing thing is that Johanna can thread ANY serger!

Here’s her pattern review:

This fabric is scrumptious to the touch and easy to sew! It did shrink about 2″ per yard–more on the dark prints than on the light. Very soft with good recovery for 100% cotton knits. You almost can’t go wrong with the many ways of combining the prints, as long as you like bright colors.

Cutting: I cut out the front and back bodice pieces one at a time so that I could get the motifs even. The directions have you double the fabric to cut them out, which works for some of the designs but not all. Likewise with the sleeves–I wanted them to have the same part of the design at the bottom so cut them out individually.

Neckband and sleeve bands: I don’t like really wide bands on the neck or sleeve, so I narrowed the pattern piece by 1/2 inch off the long side. Based on the photos I thought the neckband was a bit too long, and ended up shortening it by 1 1/2 inches. I prefer the band to lie flat and it needs to be shorter in order to do so.

Sizing: I cut a 4T, and found that it runs a little big. My finished measurement is 24″ at the chest, which corresponds to a 5 in Ottobre sizing. It is supposed to be fairly loose-fitting based on the photos, but go down a size if you’re looking for a closer fit.

Sewing with knits: If this is your first time, practice on the scraps! I find it helpful to start in a little bit from the end of the seam, take a few stitches, then backstitch to the end. This prevents fabric from being sucked into the feed dogs, and you can hold the thread ends to help move the fabric forward. You can also start on a piece of woven fabric and butt the edges together, providing a smooth start to the seam. Trim the “tag” of woven fabric off and use it again.

Construction: The directions are well-written and easy to follow. The pattern pieces all fit together nicely and are well-drafted. I used a 3.0 straight stitch for most of the seams and trimmed the seam allowances to 1/4″. I stretched the fabric slightly as I sewed the waist seams (step 4) so there would be some give when the child pulls the garment on and off. I used a .5 zigzag stitch as suggested when sewing on the neckband and sleevebands, and used a 3.0 straight stitch with woolly nylon in the bobbin to topstitch. This is an especially important place to have stretch–getting the garment over the head.

Neckband: I like to quarter mark my neckline and neckband: after pressing the neckband in half the long way, fold the neckband in half so the short ends meet and place a pin at the fold (remember I trimmed 1 1/2″ from this piece). Fold each half in half again and place pins at each quarter mark. Take the garment and mark center front and center back with pins, then match those pins and place one pin on either side at the fold. Your neckline is now divided into quarters, and you’ll notice that the pins are not at the shoulder seams. The front neckline is longer since it is lower, so if you pin the neckband quarter mark to the shoulder seams then your front neckline will be puckered. Match the pins on the neckband to the neckline pins, and stitch the two together. Stretch the neckband to match the neckline–it will draw in when you press it and lie flat.

Attaching sleeves: I like to pin the notch on the sleeve that marks the midpoint to the shoulder seam, then pin each end so the sleeve and bodice are even at the seam, i.e. 1/2″ from the end. Then I sew with the sleeve against the bed of the sewing machine. The feed dogs will help ease in any extra fabric that is there for ease. I did not find I needed the extra easing with this pattern in this size, but in other garments it has helped a lot.

Hemming: I hemmed this piece on my coverstitch machine, but the same look is easily attainable with a wide double needle. Woolly nylon in the bobbin will ensure that the hem retains the stretch. I put in a 5/8″ hem as I could not find any reference to hem depth other than 1/2″ seam allowances. I like a little deeper hem so might add a little to the length next time.

Additional Construction Tips: Good pressing throughout is the key to a professional finish. Press each seam flat (don’t move the iron- just press down, pick up, and press down on the next section), then press open. I trimmed the seams after pressing open with very sharp appliqué scissors. Serged seams do not lay as flat as regular machine seams as you can’t get the seam allowance to open, which is why I used the sewing machine. Topstitching each seam would ensure that it lays flat.

Thank you Johanna!

pink chalk fabrics ~*~ new arrivals ~*~ free patterns ~*~ on sale