Sewing Pattern Review: Lady Grey by Colette Patterns

Jacqui made two coats this winter! Her latest is this fabulous Lady Grey Coat by Colette Patterns. (See her Salma Boiled Wool Coat from Ottobre). Here’s her pattern review:

When I saw Colette Pattern’s new line, I knew I had to make the Lady Grey coat. Several features attracted me including flattering princess seams, a non fussy short length, ¾ sleeves to allow pretty bracelets to be seen and a full hem with a tie belt at the waist to give that hourglass shape. Topstitching completes the ready to wear look. I picked a fuchsia lambs wool for my coat. My lining had splashes of fuchsia, black, grey and white. It was a great match though the inferior polyester satin did prove to be temperamental.

Before I could begin, I needed to pick a size. I wasn’t sure if the bust measurement was usual band size, an upper bust measurement or even a full bust measurement. I happen to have a different measurement for each of them. I decided on a size up from what I would normally use as a bust measurement for a Big 4 pattern. I should add that I usually need a full bust adjustment but I did not make one on this pattern. I’ve read that Colette’s Patterns are drafted for curves but still made to be close fitting. In the end, the fit was a bit snugger than I like in my coats. If you usually do a FBA, I suggest going by your full bust measurement.

Lady Grey is currently the only one of Colette Patterns to carry an advanced rating. The instructions are so well written that it felt more like an intermediate pattern, just with more time involved. You could practically complete the coat on the drawings alone.

There is a lot of top stitching involved which I’m sure adds to the advanced rating. I used a quarter inch presser foot (the type with the guide edge on the side) to help me sew even topstitching. I used the guide edge in the groove of the seam. In order to topstitch the sleeve in its tube form before it was to be sewn to the armhole, I had to turn it inside out. I then positioned the right side of the sleeve under my needle. As I worked my way down the seam, the sleeve tube bunched up a bit but I was still able to complete the stitching accurately on the right side.

Speaking of the sleeves, I feel the sleeve lining could be a little longer. When I attempted to sew it to the hem of the shell, it pulled down and made the outside of the coat bunch up. I had to tack it down higher than the hem of the shell. And while I didn’t alter any pattern piece, I believe the sleeve cap was a bit too generous. Aside from the sleeve cap having too much ease, the rest of the pattern pieces fit together nicely.

On my coat, I did two things that were not in the instructions. I made a faux buttonhole and I tacked down the pockets. I wasn’t sure of my button so I hand sewed a snap, which is an option, but still sewed the button on top. And when I found that my pockets dipped down between the shell and lining (as they’re not stitched together), I tacked them into place to keep from showing. This completed my coat and I’ve worn it proudly since.

I’m absolutely thrilled with my new coat. Lady Grey has a flattering style with detailed and easy to follow instructions. I highly recommend this coat pattern.

I’m extremely fortunate to work everyday with amazingly talented and inspirational sewists, thank you Jacqui for sharing your excellent review!

We carry the full collection of Colette Patterns in the shop. Happy Sewing.

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