Pink Chalk Studio » Blog Archive » Why Use a Topstitching Needle?

Why Use a Topstitching Needle?

Apr 15th, 2008 by Kathy

Before:

After:

Big difference! I stitched up a trio of Notelets today and got a bit lazy. I started topstitching the spine without changing my needle. I thought it might be worthwhile to show you guys an up close view of the quality variation between using a Universal Needle (the top photo) and a Topstitching Needle (the second photo). The thread and tension was the same, only the needle changed.

At this point of the construction, the needle is stitching through 4 layers of fabric: 2 folded over spine fabric + 1 lining + 1 exterior. Add to those 4 layers of cloth a layer of Peltex stabilizer. Holy moly!

Topstitching needles feature an extra large eye to accommodate thick thread. They also have an extra sharp point that allows the needle to penetrate easily through multiple layers. A Jeans needle is very similar to a topstitching needle, it shares the extra sharp point and strong shaft. I often use the two interchangeably. Read that as: whatever I have on hand!

The limitations of trying to utilize a Universal needle for this job are painfully obvious in the photo. Frayed thread caused by the needle attempting to pierce through the layers and dragging the thread along for the ride. The stitch tension is way off, see all the blue pin dots? That’s the blue bobbin thread pulling up to the top of the fabric. At the upper right hand corner where I made the turn you can see an angled thread pulling across the corner. Compare that to the nice neat corner in the second photo.

Some might not like the large holes created by the larger needle eye. I actually like the definition it gives the topstitching. I have a few more finishing details and then I’ll show off these cuties!

4/17/08: Answers to questions from the comments:

- From Teresa, do I change my stitch length when I topstitch? Yes, from 2.3 to 2.5. Not for any technical reason, just because I like a longer stitch aesthetically.

- Sarah asked about needles for quilting and piecing. I use Universals for my piecing but I like ‘Quilting’ needles for both free-motion and walking foot quilting that I do on my home machine. The Quilting needle has a larger eye and a sharper point. It gives me better thread tension and doesn’t ‘drag’ on the fabric, especially noticeable when doing free-motion work.

- KathieB asked about metallic thread. Eek, that stuff scares me. I asked Kristin LaFlamme this same question several months ago because she does some beautiful free-motion quilting work with metallic threads. She recommended using a #90 Topstitching needle. Kristin also told me she uses Microtex needles for everything else, piecing and quilting with the exception of Stretch needles for knits. Patty A. recommends Microtex too in the comments: “It goes thru the fabric like butter without the fabric goobering up at the beginning or at the end.” I’m definitely picking up a pack and plan to try them out. (Patty gets a star for using the technical term “goobering up” which gave me a laugh because I knew EXACTLY what she meant.)

Posted in Sewing | 65 Comments

65 Responses to “Why Use a Topstitching Needle?”

on 15 Apr 2008 at 5:25 pm1Sarah

Wow! What a difference. Since you are talking about needles, what needles do you use during piecing and quilting. Do you use two different needles? Thanks!
on 15 Apr 2008 at 5:29 pm2Administrator

Sarah: I use Universal needles for piecing. I like to use Quilting needles when I machine quilt. For the same reason, they have larger eyes and sharper points making it easier for the needle to penetrate the quilt sandwich. I also feel like the quilt moves easier since the needle isn’t ‘dragging’.
on 15 Apr 2008 at 6:16 pm3adrienne

And you are CORRECT!!!! LOL
on 15 Apr 2008 at 6:25 pm4KathieB

Amazing. Thanks for sharing this. The subtle differences among different needles are there for a reason!

Have you sewn at all with Sulky Sliver? What needle do you like for that devilish stuff?
on 15 Apr 2008 at 6:35 pm5Kim

Well I didn’t even know there was such a thing. Thanks!
on 15 Apr 2008 at 6:51 pm6Jenna

Your post is exactly why I love reading blogs. I would have never known about a topstitching needle and its benefits. Thanks for sharing.
on 15 Apr 2008 at 6:57 pm7nyjlm

wow, that’s amazing- and what a great tip for a novice/beginning sewer!
on 15 Apr 2008 at 7:00 pm8clarice

There is a Topstitching needle, well I learn new things from you all the time. Clarice
on 15 Apr 2008 at 7:20 pm9Carrie

Holy moly indeed. I didn’t even know topstitching needles existed. Or quilting ones, for that matter. My entire arsenal consists of universay, ball (for knits?) and jeans. Thanks for the tip — as usual!
on 15 Apr 2008 at 7:22 pm10Anita

Good point! I often get lazy in changing my needles too. But it’s good to be reminded that it really is worth the effort.
on 15 Apr 2008 at 7:27 pm11Kim

Thanks for posting this. I’m having trouble finishing up the handle on a bag. I hadn’t even thought about changing the needle Maybe that will help. Thanks also for the very kind comment you left on my blog the other day
on 15 Apr 2008 at 7:48 pm12Kristin

I didn’t even know about topstitching needles. Thanks for bringing this up. The topstitching was the hardest part of the Note Taker that I made. I’d definitely use this or a jeans needle next time!
on 15 Apr 2008 at 8:07 pm13fiona

thanks so much!i didnt even know that there was such a thing!i have a jeans/leather needle i’ll give it a go!thanks again!
on 15 Apr 2008 at 9:27 pm14Kathi D

Wow, thanks for sharing that! I would not have thought the difference would be so striking! I am a fiend for using a fresh needle, but I can get lazy about swapping out needle types, but this will teach me to use the proper needle.
on 16 Apr 2008 at 12:22 am15charlotte narunsky

Wow - thanks so much for showing this! It makes my laziness even less excusable!
on 16 Apr 2008 at 12:41 am16Lisa

You learn something new everyday! I will have to investigate the Topstitching needle. I have jeans needles and quilting needles - have to add a new one to my supplies.
on 16 Apr 2008 at 1:37 am17Tina Poulsen

Thanks a lot for sharing this I have often wondered why there was so many needles But now I actually SEE the difference… and what a difference
on 16 Apr 2008 at 4:38 am18Jen Eskridge

Thats amazing. I’ll have to look into getting some top-stitching needles when I get home. I’m currently a universal girl, myself. Excellent photographs. ~jen~
on 16 Apr 2008 at 6:16 am19Marcia

Thanks for such a clear pic on the topstitch needle. I didn’t even know there was such a needle, but will look for one now.
on 16 Apr 2008 at 6:56 am20heidi

That is a big difference! I decided yesterday that, in my case, I’m not lazy - I’m impatient. I have a hard time going through all the steps because I can’t wait to see the final product. Thanks for reminding me of why it is sometimes better to slow down and do it right!
on 16 Apr 2008 at 7:00 am21Laurie

A picture is worth a thousand words—what clear illustration! I usually blame my tension for “off” stitch-quality. Who knew the needle could be the culprit! Thanks Kathy!
on 16 Apr 2008 at 7:39 am22sappmama

Kathy, thanks so much for posting this. It’s seriously opened my eyes. I buy different kinds of needles, but have often wondered how much it really mattered, and once in a while I’ll talk myself into going with “whatever’s in the machine,” lol. No more. This is an invaluable lesson!
on 16 Apr 2008 at 7:42 am23beki

Okay, I’m an idiot - I never realized that there was such a thing as a topstitch needle!
on 16 Apr 2008 at 9:03 am24Anina

Wow! Thanks for the advice Kathy. The difference is amazing!
on 16 Apr 2008 at 9:03 am25Patty A.

I use a topstitching needle when I do my free motion machine quilting. A needle I discovered for piecing two days ago (and I have been quilting for over 20 years!) is a microtex sharp 80/12. It goes thru the fabric like butter without the fabric goobering up at the beginning or at the end. It works better than a universal 80/12.
on 16 Apr 2008 at 10:11 am26nicolette

Thanks for this amazing tip! Never heard of a topstitch needle. Have to figure out what it’s called in Dutch. Very useful! So much to learn!
on 16 Apr 2008 at 11:23 am27Teresa

OMG! Finally, a good example and explanation of why there are different needles. And I thought it was just a gimmick to get more money out of my pocket. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU for sharing this. I hope to try this out later today after I spend some time at the needle display at the fabric store! Too bad I topstitched my niece’s vest/birthday present last night before reading this!

Do you change the stitch length at all when you topstitch?
on 16 Apr 2008 at 12:09 pm28ericka

So…. Being a self-taught sewer this bit of advice will help cure many frustrations from my machine. Thank you.
on 16 Apr 2008 at 1:45 pm29Jill

Wow - such a difference. I too did not know of this fabulous thing called a topstitch needle! I always have trouble sewing through thick items, which is one of the reasons I have held off on making the notetaker yet. I have a Husqvarna Scandinavia, but I’m always regretting not getting a Pfaff with the IDT. What are your thoughts? What kind of machine do you have? Maybe I just need to try a better needle. Hmmm…
on 16 Apr 2008 at 2:20 pm30debra

That’s amazing! I’m most impressed by the definition of the stitches–huge difference! I mostly use heavy duty or jeans needles since I don’t know what I’ll want to sew through from one day to the next: multilayers, paint, paper, etc. but I never thought there was much difference outside of the ease of getting the needle through it all. This is also a great reminder to change your needle often. Who knew the needle alone made such a difference to the finished look of a piece?? Thanks for taking the time to share!
on 16 Apr 2008 at 2:59 pm31Mallory

Thank you so much for sharing this & showing us what a huge difference the correct makes. I truly would have never thought it and now I’m very intrigued!
on 16 Apr 2008 at 7:53 pm32Heather

I am really blown away by the difference a needle can make! As a new, self-taught sewer I had no idea that there were so many different needles, this really illustrates the benefit of a top-stitching needle for me. THANK YOU!!
on 16 Apr 2008 at 10:24 pm33stephanie s

it is amazing that using the right tool for the job can result in something that looks professionally made rather than home made… thanks for reminding me of just that…
on 17 Apr 2008 at 5:22 am34Jenny

I had no idea that a needle could make that much of a difference. I am always looking for ways to really finish off my pieces so this will be a big help! I’m always learning…
on 17 Apr 2008 at 5:27 am35Roze

wow, I cant believe what a difference it makes! pretty colour by the way.
on 17 Apr 2008 at 7:50 am36Jane

Thanks for sharing this! I had never even heard of top stiching needles!
on 17 Apr 2008 at 8:36 am37Chara Michele

The difference really is amazing! It really does pay to take a little extra time to get things right doesn’t it…
on 17 Apr 2008 at 8:42 am38Amy

I never think about the needle! Obviously I should - I was experimenting the other day with my machine and some scraps but my thread kept breaking - changing the needle might just help! Thanks for the pics.
on 17 Apr 2008 at 9:04 am39kelly

Wow! What a difference! Thank so much for sharing this information — it’s really useful.
on 17 Apr 2008 at 5:50 pm40Administrator

In response to Jill: I have a Janome 6600 that has a built in walking foot. I sew through a lot of crazy combinations of fabrics and materials so I really love that feature and use it a lot.
on 17 Apr 2008 at 9:45 pm41Lorrie

Hi Kathy, I’ve been reading your blog for about 6 months now and really enjoy it. You are very talented and creative. Do you use cotton thread for your topstitching or is there a special thread for it? Thank you…Lorrie
on 18 Apr 2008 at 4:58 am42Jen

I just bought more topstitching needles the other day … for this very reason. The difference is really amazing ….
on 18 Apr 2008 at 5:39 am43Meredith

What a great post! I’m just starting out in the sewing world and I didn’t even know there was a topstitching needle.
on 18 Apr 2008 at 7:57 am44Wendy

Oh yes, I love topstitch needles, what a huge difference they make. When I topstitch I always increase length, sometimes up to 4, I like how that looks, and goes through a lot of layers. To know whats in my machine I’ve sectioned off a tomato pincushion, and with a fine point marker, wrote different needles sizes… and keep a bright pin in the size thats in my machine now. It sounds like it might be a pain, but it really is easy, and I do switch back and forth a lot. Those metallic needles are good to quilt with too, with just regular quilting thread, has anybody else tried that?
on 18 Apr 2008 at 8:16 am45Donna

Thank you for the post! I’ve been so frustrated trying to figure out why my topstitching looks so sloppy

You mentioned the topstitching needle has a bigger eye to accomodate different thread. Do you use a different thread for topstitching as well?
on 18 Apr 2008 at 11:39 am46Administrator

Lorrie and Donna: I don’t use different thread for my topstitching although you certainly could. I think it would be fun to experiment with some of the heavy quilting/embellishment threads. I’m using regular old Gutterman polyester thread in both examples. Happy sewing! xo kathy
on 18 Apr 2008 at 5:45 pm47ter

this is such a great post. i’ll have to check my needle stash to see if i have ever purchased a topstitching needle, since i have never used one before. this will make all the difference in the world for my projects. thank you from another b. islander!
on 20 Apr 2008 at 3:58 pm48muralimanohar

Wow!!! I knew a topstitching needle existed, but had no idea it made THAT much of a difference!!!!

Thanks for the great info and pictures!
on 20 Apr 2008 at 5:01 pm49Nikki

Thank you so much for the information and the photos! I have topstitching needles, but I’m not the best at keeping track of what I’m using. I typically have a large needle in the machine because I like to use metallics and I’ve found bigger is better for not shredding the thread. I probably need to make a chart to explain the difference between all the different needles.
on 21 Apr 2008 at 7:39 am50thevintagemagpie

Hi there,

I came across your blog today, and love it. Thanks for the advice re: changing needles … the thought had never crossed my mind . I will put this into action straight away!.

Nicky x
on 21 Apr 2008 at 4:18 pm51rachel

wow, what a great post! i’ve sewn long enough to know the needle used makes a big difference, but I often get lazy about changing it during a project. seeing this side-by-side really inspires me to do what I know to do. thank you!
on 22 Apr 2008 at 4:38 pm52Nathalie

As they say you do learn something new averyday. And when I do my day is complete. Wow what a diff. Thanks for sharing. Great blog Will be back.
on 28 Apr 2008 at 3:51 pm53andi

Thanks for the comparison. I have a question: when topstitching with a thicker thread do you use it in the bobbin also? My current machine can’t cope with it in the bobbin so I use regular underneath, and the heavy stuff on top. Still looks ok…. I think
on 28 Apr 2008 at 6:40 pm54Administrator

Andi: I have to admit I haven’t used any thicker threads. I have experimented with winding some specialty threads around a bobbin and they actually work well. Now you’ve got my interest up, I think I need to do some experimenting with that Thanks for the question!
on 02 May 2008 at 6:14 am55Anitra

What a great tip. It looks like I’ll be picking a top stitching needle up very soon!
on 02 May 2008 at 7:44 am56Sandra :)

THANK you for the photos and information - I had no idea there was such a thing as a top stitching needle. I’ve been having a terrible time with my Babylock - the thread and needles break constantly, and the stitching looks like crap. The bad decorative stitches have literally ruined 2 quilts and I’ve been ready for months to pitch the machine to the curb in total frustration. I frequently use a jeans needle for stitching through multiple layers - now I think maybe I’ll give it a try when doing the decorative stitching to see if that will help me get nicer stitches. Your pictures are fabulous, and make it VERY clear what a big difference the right needle makes - thank you!
on 03 May 2008 at 5:10 am57Pat

What an eye opener! I was headed to Joann’s for needles. Guess I know I will be looking more closely at what kind I buy now.
on 03 May 2008 at 7:15 am58Denise

HI: Someone mentioned Sulky Sliver thread. It is easy to use. I have used it and it give a nice shimmer to things. I used it on “water” in a landscape little quilt wall hanging. The only thing I did was use the standard metallic needle and it went along nicely.
Denise
on 03 May 2008 at 8:45 am59anne

Those needdles are new?. Can i find them in all stores or are brand new stuff?. they are a drem come true!
on 03 May 2008 at 10:11 am60Administrator

Anne: The topstitching needles have been around for some time. They’re not as common as a Universal but you should still be able to locate them at most retailers.Good luck, Kathy
on 04 May 2008 at 1:08 pm61Taina

I didn’t realize that topstitching needles existed but I am definitely going to find some.
on 04 May 2008 at 10:02 pm62Charity

Wow, 30+ years of sewing and I’ve never bothered with a top-stitching needle. I am completely won over. What an amazing difference. The power of a photo.

charity
on 04 May 2008 at 11:53 pm63Sew Sisters United #3 - Page 2 - birthtalks ®

[…] just had a quick sweep around some of the blogs I used to love but haven;t had a chance to read in ages found a great tutorial on why it is worth using a topstitch needle Pink Chalk Studio Blog Archive Why Use a Topstitching Needle? One thing that really improved my sewing was using the right tools for the job and needles/thread play such an important role in sewing. The good old universal 80 is a great needle but next time needles are on special grab a packet of jeans/topstitch and a set of ballpoint/jersey if you don’t have them. You’ll be surprised with the difference. __________________ Blog http://theoreticgal.typepad.com DS #1 11 yrs DS#2 arrived 7th Feb 08 …… 6lbs 8oz of pure joy […]
on 13 May 2008 at 8:24 am64Lee Ann

Thanks for the info about topstitching needles, I just put one on my old sewing machine, and now it sews like a dream!!!
on 13 May 2008 at 8:30 am65Administrator

That’s great news Lee Ann, thanks for the testimonial!