Sew Expo 2008 - Independent Pattern Designers
Mar 4th, 2008 by Kathy

Sew Expo always features a large number of independent pattern designers. Companies that are writing patterns for home sewers that focus on a good fit. When I was 20 I could buy any pattern, cut it out, sew it up and it would fit perfectly. I was also called chicken legs and skin and bones for the first half of my life. After two kids that just ain’t the case anymore!
As I tip toe back into trying to make some clothes for myself I’m trying to select patterns that will give me a fighting chance. Ottobre has a lot more ease in their patterns. I LOVE that they use real women in their pattern books. The one top I’ve made was very accurate relative to the measurement I matched up on for size.

Besides the Sandra Betzina knit tops, I also selected patterns from Cecelia Podolak and Peggy Sagers. I had the opportunity to chat with Cecelia at the show, she told me that she is focused on developing a line of classics that are sized just like ready to wear. The dress in the top photo is exactly what I’ve been looking for. I actually had been at Jo-Ann’s two weeks ago looking through all the pattern books for a dress in that style so I figured it was meant for me to find her booth. I ADORE the tucks at the waste.
One thing that’s great about Expo is that the independent designers bring samples all made up that you can touch, feel and even try on if you’re so inclined!

So, back to Peggy Sagers. Her booth had women working that were all different sizes and they were all wearing clothes made from her patterns. That type of marketing works on me every time. I’m intrigued with the idea of different bust sizes incorporated into the pattern. I tend to be very narrow through my shoulders and although I would not describe myself as busty I’m a C cup and relatively big all the way around my body for that measurement. I always end up with tops where the buttons want to gap and pop off. A friend suggested these patterns and I’m looking forward to seeing how they work. I also thought I might learn a thing or two about making bust size adjustments to any pattern.
I always come back with big hopes and dreams about sewing a whole wardrobe. I’m really going to focus some time this year on making that happen, you’ll be the first to see the results!
What independent patterns have you made?

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I have yet to venture out of the ‘big name’ brands for patterns and into the independents (as I’m still finding my feet in dressmaking). However I also have a virtual wardrobe of gorgeous, well tailored items just waiting to become a reality. You gotta start somewhere I guess!
So I’d love to follow your journey if you have a go with the independent patterns this year, particularly because I have the ‘narrow shoulder+big bust’ scenario and the button popping / gapage issue. Fitting is definitely something I’d like to master, and finding a good pattern that takes care of most of the fitting problems for us would be just ideal.
NONE! I’m still getting used to the Big 4! LOL
I’m on the tiny side and have no patience for making muslins first, so things tend to be big and baggy on me and I lose interest in sewing for myself. It’s much easier to go into a store and try on 10 ill fitting items before finding the right one, rather than invest the time in sewing 10 ill fitting items before finding the right one! Clothes for my little girl are another story — I love the wacky European independents. I’ve sewn German Farbenmix and Dutch Bizkids patterns and am pretty happy with the results. They are not long on instruction, but have lots of room for variation in fabric, color, sleeve length, layered skirts, etc. While not for the beginner, someone with a little bit of confidence can really have fun with these patterns.
that silhouette skirt looks cool… make it black with a pink piping! (at least that would be what I would do *g*)
the dress is awesome, i love the kind of retro-feeling it has about it
i really like it when the pattern/sewing folks do present their patterns on “real” women, so we can se that the special dress we are longing for really does look good if you have wider hips or narrower shoulders or if you are a bit smaller than others. this would have worked with me as well - i probably would have bought everything they have
Dear Kathy,
I love the pattern from www.patterncompany.de. Have a look at the page the patterns are wonderful.
Have a nice day
Birgit
I Love the idea of sewing my own clothes. I did in high school and, like you, the patterns fit, but not now. I just get so frustrated. I have given up on the actual sewing part, however, there is still the glimmer of a dream that I could find a pattern that sews up to fit me somewhat closely. Instead I get absorbed in quilts and other fun crafts that have to fit no one. As long as I can sew something, I’m happy!
Best of luck,
Juanita
Just the other day I was thinking of making myself a skirt, but short of some elastic waste number I was fearful of how it would fit. So I opted to sew for my daughter instead. I’ll have to give one of these pattern designers a try. Thanks for the tip.
Hi Kathy: I used to make all my clothes. Glad that others also have had the same problems w/fitting for “women of a certain age”. I’ll be watching your progress, ready to jump in. Good Luck
I gave up sewing clothes for myself years ago out of frustration. I sewed for my daughter up until two years ago — used two patterns by the same line within the same pattern company, and the sizing was vastly off in each. That did it, and I haven’t made a thing since.
I’ll be interested to see what your experience with these patterns pans out to be. I’ve been toying with the idea of the Wild Ginger software, too.
No wonder so few of us are sewing clothes for ourselves these days! I was very tempted by the Wild Ginger software but ran out of time. That’s definitely on my radar screen. They also have this body scan thing at the Expo. I’m already scheming for next year! Kathy
I encourage frustrated sewers to abandon the Big 4 patterns for all but the most basic of garments. The body measurements from which they design the sizes are very outdated for today’s figures
( unless you happen to be a supermodel). I do like Kwik Sew, however, the patterns are so easy to alter and generally fit my plus sized body better than the others. I have just ordered some Ottobre magazines and I can’t wait to get started on trying out some of their patterns!
If you’re really interested in sewing a wardrobe, you might want to look at a the Sewing-With-A-Purpose (SWAP) idea. Links are posted at the Peacock Chic blog (http://peacockchic.wordpress.com/) — go to her categories dropdown menu and choose SWAP. It’s a pretty interesting concept that I’ve bought a bunch of fabric for, but haven’t had the nerve to cut into yet! Happy sewing.